Bunk'Art 1, Army Command Center 0774

The former Albanian army headquarters, designated Object 0774. The complex features a vast footprint and long tunnels throughout. It was built in the 1980s with the assistance of specialists from the People’s Republic of China and represented the pinnacle of Albanian bunker construction in its day. Until 2014 it remained military property, after which it was converted into a museum.

What makes the bunker especially compelling is how well its Cold War-era interiors and equipment have been preserved. The blocks are divided into numerous small working rooms and three suites of rooms reserved for senior commanders. Two blocks remain abandoned and are separated from the museum section. The entrance to them is blocked by a broken grille — they can be explored carefully on their own. Inside the abandoned block stand an old telephone exchange and a battery room.

The bunker’s rooms host exhibitions on Albania’s 20th-century history arranged in chronological order from entrance to exit. They cover the country’s key periods and milestones: independence from the Ottoman Empire, the reign of the first (and last) king Ahmet Zogu, the Italian and German occupations during World War II, the rule of Enver Hoxha, the Cold War period, Hoxha’s death, the transition to capitalism, everyday objects from communist civilian life, and military artefacts. Particularly striking is the underground theatre hall, complete with a stage, rows of seats, and a balcony.

A little mythbusting:

• Many sources claim the bunker has five floors, but this is not accurate. The bunker is built between hills, and owing to the terrain, its entrances and corresponding blocks sit at different elevations. Visiting the bunker requires descending four staircases, but that does not mean it has five storeys.

• This was never Enver Hoxha’s personal bunker. Although a workspace was designated for him here, in the event of war Hoxha was to take shelter in a different bunker. Object 0774 was designed to serve as the main headquarters of the Albanian army.

In the view of the Urbex Albania team, this place is a must-see on any trip to Albania.