Part 1. First Encounter.

Last December one of our friends came to visit us. Together we set out to explore some promising Albanian mines.

This mine was founded in the 1960s and closed in 2025. Active extraction was carried out through the 1970s, and by the early 1980s the main shaft had been sunk. Since then, the equipment and mining methods used at the site were barely updated. Through the 1990s and 2000s the mine was essentially idle and falling apart.

There was a time when illegal diggers would go inside with pickaxes, extracting chromite ore and selling it to private buyers. Needless to say, this kind of mining regularly led to injuries and deaths among those diggers. You can google news stories about two Albanians falling into an ore chute — one was killed outright, the other was left a bit simple. Or about someone who went in and never came back after a collapse.

Toward the mid-2010s a private company took over the mine and resumed operations, paying little attention to the site’s technical condition. Extraction continued until May 2025, when a miner was buried by a collapse on one of the levels. After that, the state regulator revoked the license and shut the mine down. Now it’s slowly being flooded by groundwater.

Arriving on site and parking behind one of the mine’s service buildings, we head off to explore the surface.

1. Let’s start from the end — the waste dump. This is where the ore cars were unloaded.

Narrow-gauge track running out along the trestle over the mine's waste dump in the Albanian hills

2. The ore was tipped out of the cars through rotary dumpers.

Rotary car dumper on the tipping trestle where ore cars were emptied onto the dump

3. An excavator sorted through the ore and divided it into piles. The piles were trucked to a nearby ore-processing plant as needed. There’s still a guard on duty there, so I won’t share photos. Trust me, there’s nothing interesting anyway. The ore was simply washed by the river running through the plant, then loaded into trucks. The nearby village draws its drinking water from that same river.

Wheel loader sorting chromite ore into piles on the black ground of the waste dump

4. As they say, fear cancer — don’t be Albanian.

Rotary dumper with two yellow discs numbered 1 and 2, rails running straight through it

5. Another rotary dumper on the far side of the waste dump.

Concrete ore chute in the retaining wall of the waste dump, with the tipping track above

6. Let’s head toward the portal.

Surface yard of the mine: rows of trolley poles, narrow-gauge track and service sheds

7. Ruhuni nga trolei — watch out for the trolley wire.

Hand-painted Albanian warning sign Ruhuni nga trolei beside the track to the portal

8. Ore cars.

String of rusty ore cars standing on the surface track under the trolley wire

9. Push-pull.

Two ore cars buffer to buffer on the narrow-gauge track between the trolley poles

10. POV: you are the electric locomotive.

View along a train of ore cars toward the mine yard, as if from the locomotive's cab

11. And here’s the electric locomotive itself.

Yellow trolley locomotive coupled to ore cars on the surface track of the chrome mine

12. Pretty.

The mine's electric locomotive with its open driver's alcove and lowered pantograph

13. The pantograph is lowered, but it can be raised.

Lowered pantograph of the electric locomotive with its spring and trolley shoe

14. The cab. The locomotive won’t start — no power on the line.

Cab of the mine locomotive: controller drum, brake handwheel and rusted switch cabinet

15. It will no longer haul ore cars behind it.

Electric locomotive with an ore car standing derelict in the grass beside the track

16. The portal is coming into view.

Ore cars on the track with the yellow frame of the mine portal appearing ahead

17. ELEKTROVOZI! You can feel the Soviet influence — the word almost certainly came from Russian :) Albanian has nothing etymologically close to this word.

Rusty sign warning of the trolley wire and the electric locomotive — elektrovozi

18. Unloaded ore still sitting in the cars.

Ore car still holding a load of dried, cracked chromite ore

19. Broken ore cars lying beside the narrow-gauge track, now serving as a trash heap.

Broken ore-car bodies dumped beside the narrow-gauge track and used as a rubbish heap

20. Scrap metal.

Heap of scrap: wrecked ore-car frames and wheelsets in front of the workshop shed

21. Nearby, a Škoda truck has grown into the blackberry bushes.

Škoda truck rusting into the blackberry bushes near the mine buildings

22. A bush in the driver’s seat.

Front of the abandoned Škoda truck with bushes growing through the driver's cab

23. And here’s the portal, with the guard’s booth perched above it.

The mine portal with the guard's booth built directly above the adit

24. Beware of cats on site. If you see one, someone nearby is feeding it. This one had just finished eating.

Cat sitting in the window of the guard's booth over the mine portal

Although the gates had a padlock on them, they were bent so badly that you could easily squeeze between them — easily, that is, if you fit. My mate simply couldn’t make it through. I was already inside, he was still outside. Worried the trolley wire might be live, he carefully tried to climb over the top of the gates without touching it. I’m hanging on the gates trying to help him, when suddenly I see a guy on a moped pulling up to the portal. He clearly wasn’t expecting to find strangers and stared at us in bewilderment. We had to climb back out and go talk to him. He turned out to be the mine’s security guard, returning to his booth above the portal with a shopping bag. After chatting with him about the mine, I asked if he’d let us take a look inside — but he said no. We had to leave without seeing the mine itself.


Part 2. A Successful Entry.

A couple of months later, we had guests from China and Norway — which gave us a good reason to revisit the mine. This time we came at night and walked up to the site on foot. The guard had learned his lesson from our first encounter and taken precautions. But he didn’t have many resources, so he leaned a rattling piece of scrap metal against the gates, wedged a stick between the leaves, and stationed a half-deaf dog somewhere far away. We squeezed through the gates and went in to explore the mine.

25. This mine was worked from several levels, with the most interesting parts starting at 650 metres and below. The levels above were driven almost entirely by hand. Level 650 is conveniently located at surface level and was used for ore haulage. Originally, descent to the lower levels was via inclined shafts (at around 30°). A vertical shaft was later sunk from 650 down to 500, connecting three levels. During our exploration it turned out the lowest level was flooded — and above the waterline, an invisible surprise was waiting for visitors, but more on that later.

Schematic cross-section of the chrome mine showing levels from 450 to 900 metres and the vertical shaft

26. Level 650 is quite small — only about a kilometre of walking. Here’s the junction in front of the shaft station.

Underground junction where two arched galleries meet in front of the shaft station

27. We’ve arrived at the shaft station. One cage is in place, the other is somewhere below.

Shaft station at Level 650 with the cage gate, timber shaft framing and rails

28. Signs on the walls: signal codes, safety rules, shift descent and ascent times.

Signal-code table and shift descent times posted on the wall of the shaft station

29. The shaft attendant’s comfortable chair.

Shaft attendant's seat — a salvaged car seat beside the signalling push-button boxes

30. A fearsome electrical automation panel.

Flameproof electrical switchgear mounted on the wall of the shaft station

31. Looking down the shaft.

Looking down the timber-guided vertical shaft with the hoisting ropes disappearing below

32. We opened the cage.

The opened cage at the shaft station, its perforated steel sides and rail deck visible

33. If there’s a shaft, there’s a winding engine. Let’s head to the engine room.

Barred gate to the winding engine room with an air receiver and compressor beside it

34. The compressor room.

Compressor room with an electric compressor unit and a blue compressed air receiver

35. Another compressor and a compressed air receiver.

Second compressor with a red horizontal and a tall yellow compressed air receiver

36. Entering the engine room.

The winding engine: drum, motor and gearbox standing in the flooded engine room

37. Beautiful! A partially flooded hall with all the equipment still intact.

Flooded engine room with the winder, control desk and equipment all still in place

38. A cabinet of POG-8 self-rescuers.

Cabinet of POG-8 self-rescuers on the wall of the winding engine room

39. Thoroughly moulded over.

Self-rescuer cabinet thickly overgrown with white mould in the damp engine room

40. The winder operator’s workstation.

The winder operator's control desk with gauges, coloured buttons and a monitor

41. The backrest is propped up with planks, draped in some kind of sheepskin coat. A heater at the feet. Pure comfort!

Winder operator's seat propped with planks and a sheepskin, an electric heater at the feet

42. A rack of starting rheostats for smoothing the start and stop of the winding engine motors.

Rack of starting rheostats along the wall of the concrete-lined gallery

43. Climbing into the inclined gallery where the cables run from the drum. Sheave wheels!

Two large spoked sheave wheels with the hoisting ropes running over them

44. View downward from the sheave wheels.

Looking down the concrete-lined incline from the sheave wheels

45. Back at the shaft station. A fun safety reminder: Kujdes! Ruaj veten dhe shokun. — Watch out! Look after yourself and your mate.

Shaft station gate with Albanian safety notices: Kujdes! Ruaj veten dhe shokun

46. I start descending the shaft with the gas analyser running. One of the landings near the top of the descent. The ladder compartment is built quite solidly — they didn’t skimp on metal.

Inside the shaft ladderway: steel mesh enclosure and ladders climbing toward the light

I go first since I have the gas analyser. I check it at every landing. After about 50 metres of descent I notice oxygen levels starting to drop — from the normal 20.9% down to 20%. I slow my pace and continue down a few more ladders. The primary alarm triggers, already at 19%. I shout up to the others not to rush down, slow my own progress but keep moving. One rung, then a glance at the analyser. And at one point I see that over the span of just 4 metres, oxygen has dropped by another percent — the analyser is seriously alarmed now.

47. I shine my light downward and peer into the very bottom. No cage visible — just water rippling below. It looks like the groundwater has filled the shaft like a pool, and the rotting timber has created another pool, invisible and deadly, of carbon dioxide. Well, that’s that then. I climb back up a couple of flights to where there’s a convenient gap in the shaft ladder enclosure to take a photo.

Looking down into the shaft through the ladderway grating, trekking poles wedged across it

48. Like this one. Chokedamp. Time to head back.

The circular concrete-lined shaft dropping away below the ladderway landing

On the way to the shaft we’d noticed a tunnel branching off to the side. The mine map suggests there should be an inclined shaft there. Let’s go check.

49. And so there is. Here’s the winding drum. An inclined shaft is an older, more primitive technology compared to a vertical one. Descending along an inclined gallery takes longer, maintenance is harder — but it’s cheaper to excavate. So for smaller mines or low-tech operations, the approach is justified.

Winding drum of the inclined shaft with its motor and gearbox in the arched gallery

50. Incidentally, the tunnel is so narrow you can’t spread your arms. After the vertical shaft was sunk, this gallery was repurposed as a ventilation drift, and the rails were removed from the upper (non-collapse-risk) section. A pump was installed here with a green hose disappearing into a hole in the wall. Below lies the collapse-risk zone.

Blue pump with a green hose in the narrow inclined gallery, a headlamp glowing beyond

51. We’ve descended to Level 500. The rock here consists mainly of chromite interbedded with soft chlorite, which means it shifts around easily. Groundwater is actively pouring in and flooding the level. The water comes very close to the top of our boots, but thankfully it’s just shallow enough to walk along the rails without scooping water inside.

Flooded drift on Level 500 with steel arch supports standing in muddy water

52. An original, long-rusted pump in a side branch near the bottom of the inclined shaft.

Old rusted pump on a plinth in a side branch at the bottom of the inclined shaft

53. The rock is unstable, but it does tint the water a gorgeous turquoise :3

Turquoise water flooding the rails in an arched drift, with a rockfall in a side opening

54. Natural colours, I swear.

Long flooded drift with turquoise water covering the rails and flakes of fallen rock

55. They were mining chromite, hit barren rock, and kept digging to the right.

Junction where mining hit barren rock, the side opening packed with waste

56. A picturesque collapse, complete with an ore car.

Ore car standing beside a rockfall spilling through the arch supports of the drift

57. The timbering gives way to concrete; someone decided to store spare ore cars here.

Spare ore cars parked in the concrete-lined section of the level

58. The last photo from this level. Off-camera there’s another inclined shaft leading down to the lower Level 550. Visible here is the drum for hoisting ore cars from Level 550 to Level 600 — with a HAND CRANK. Brutal. The Albanian capstan.

Hand-cranked hoisting drum on a timber frame in a side chamber of the level

59. No point going further down — flooding and gases. Time to turn back.

Inclined gallery of arch supports climbing away, rails half buried in mud

60. Here the inclined gallery passes through a mass of chlorite — extremely soft rock. Abandoned chromite mines are such fun and safe plac…

Steel arch supports twisted and squeezed by the soft chlorite rock of the incline

61. While taking this photograph, I heard metal scraping a couple of metres away. The rock is on the move. One day the ceiling will inevitably meet the floor — just not today, please. We head back up.

Badly deformed arch sets in the incline, with water trickling between fallen stones

Until next time!